Saturday, September 6, 2008

Day 49: Williamsport PA to Bloomsberg PA

46 miles: Rain! Tropical Storm Hannah spelled wet weather today. Rode for a few hours and then spent a couple hours in Muncy at the library and having lunch. Great Greek restaurant where Mike order saganaki (flaming fried cheese - very dramatic!) and dolmathes. Delicious.

Having only ridden about 20 miles, we decided that we needed to get a little bit further before calling it quits. Another couple hours in the rain and we got tired of riding in the rain. When your fingers are wrinkled like raisins, it's time to come in from the weather.

Stayed at an Econolodge with a washer and dryer. The bottom of our rear panniers were filled with about an inch of water. Everything got wet this time - even my journal is waterlogged. Good thing most of it's in the computer already.

Day 48: Wellsboro PA to Williamsport PA

76 miles (11.9 mph average) and just 6-1/2 hours on the bike today: Great day! 60 miles of flat bike path from Wellsboro to Jersey Shore on a PA rail trail. The path meandered along Pine Creek through the PA Grand Canyon. Spectacular scenery. We were surprised by the number of cyclists we ran into on a Friday morning. We probably saw over 20 riders just in the morning (and maybe 40 for the whole day.) Ran into a band of brothers from North Carolina(ages late 50's to early 70's) riding the whole length of the rail trail.

Along the bike path, we saw all kinds of wildlife - an otter, bald eagle, osprey, deer, mergansers, wood ducks, mallards and blue heron. We also surprised a red tail hawk whole flew just 6' above our heads with a small muscrat in his talons. Very dramatic!

We lunched at the Slate Run General Store which is right on the rail trail. They do a bit of everything - post office, restaurant, bike rental, fly fishing shop. Truly a "general" store.

Off the rail trail in Jersey Shore, we had an unpleasant close encounter with a Ford Escort. She honked at us and even tried to turn into us at the intersection. (We had the right of way, but evidently she didn't like waiting.)

Things got considerably better when we hit Williamsport. We ran into a group of cyclists riding from Buffalo to Gettysburg, and we rode into town with Tom - one of the members of the group. Mike showed him the way to the Hampton Inn. There, I got a funny picture of them "parking" their bikes by leaning them against the handicapped parking signs. While they were definitely members of the AARP, I think that riding 70+ miles disqualifies them from the handicapped designation.

We stayed at the historic Genetti Hotel downtown. Cheaper than the Hampton Inn and nicer! On the 8th floor we had panoramic views of town and the surrounding hills. We dined at the Bullfrom Brewing Co - great stout there. Mike ordered the "Burg" - the most bizzare salad I've ever seen. It's a variation of the famous(?) Pittsburg Salad. Here's the recipe:

mixed greens (the traditional version calls for iceberg lettuce of course)
tomatoes
pickled eggs
sliced beets
onions
garlic french fries
cheddar jack cheese
blackened shrimp

He claims that it's delicious, but I'm dubious.

Thursday, September 4, 2008

Day 47: Wellsboro PA (rest day)

Ah, a rest day! We're staying with Mark and Sandy just outside of town. Sandy made us some delicious black bean/rice and cheese quesadillas for dinner last night. Today we rode into town for an interview with the Wellsboro newspaper, and lunch with Cathy and Steve. I got some yoga in this afternoon, and we've had time to catch up on bills and e-mails. Resting is good!

I saw a quote from one of my favorite poets, Mary Oliver, today:

Tell me, what else should I have done?
Doesn't everything die at last, and too soon?
Tell me, what is it you plan to do
with your one wild and precious life? --Mary Oliver

With the death of another cyclist, we're reminded that 1)we are always vulnerable, and 2)life is short. For me, this is all the more reason not to sit at home on the couch - despite the risks. Back in Fort Collins, Dick shared his favorite life philosophy with us:

"Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well-preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting "holy shit-what a ride!"

I like this plan.

Wednesday, September 3, 2008

Day 46: Marshburg PA to Wellsboro PA

88 miles (11.5 mph): An absolutely beautiful day of riding. Today's route through Port Allegheny, Coudersport, and Denton Hill to Wellsboro was one of the best of the entire trip. Lovely forests, rivers, and big views. The downhill portion of the day from the top of Denton Hill to Wellsboro rivaled the days we had in CA (top of Carson Pass in the Sierras) and in Colorado (Cameron Pass down through Cache La Poudre canyon) - just awesome!

As we ate lunch in Coudersport, we received sad news from Cathy: yesterday a member of Wellsboro's cycling community was killed in an accident in Tioga. Tom Kauffman was riding his bicycle into town and had a fatal collision with a car. We are so sad for his family and the community. Such a great loss. Needless to say, it was a sober ride into Wellsboro.

Tuesday, September 2, 2008

Day 45: Meadville PA to Marshburg PA

80 miles (10.5 mph): Oh they have some crazy steep hills this part of PA! 10% grades make for some slow going. The culture is a bit different here. Many Amish and/or Mennonite farms.

According to Mike, this is also home to a good number of ultra-right wing rednecks. Lots of yard signs proclaiming, "Support the troops - let 'em win the war." (I guess this is in response to "support the troops - bring them home" signs.) We rode past one home where we spotted an older man working on his lawn in the front yard. Next to his driveway was a sign that read, "Vote Right, Vote White". Initially, I was trying to figure out which party was that color...as in Democrats are "blue" and Republicans are "red". Then I got it...horrifying. (Mike, momentarily as naive as I was, said at first that he thought that it referred to someone's last name.)

We stopped at a tiny market at a 4-way stop town a little while later. The sign on the door proclaimed that, effective September 1, smoking inside businesses was prohibited. So no smoking inside the market. When we approached the register, we noticed a petition on the counter requesting signatures to repeal the ridiculous "no smoking in businesses" law.

Camped at a nice KOA near Allegheny National Forest ($38 a night!) A beautiful area...awesome scenery. And Mike got his first Ylingling beer, which made him a happy camper. According to the owners of the campground, they have bears visit the campsite virtually every night. Made for some fitful sleep for me. I think Mike slept fine.

Monday, September 1, 2008

Day 44: Lyndhurst, OH to Meadville, PA

87 miles (11.4 mph): It was hard leaving Lyndhurst today. I got a little teary-eyed as we rode away from Nancy and Nikki's house. We had a great time hanging out with them. I wish we didn't live so far apart.

Today we enjoyed some of the prettiest scenery since we left Colorado. I forgot how nice northeast Ohio is. We rode past my high school, Gilmour, in Gates Mills; then down Cedar Road to River Road. Rivers, lakes, woods and hills - beautiful! Crossed into PA this afternoon...the homestretch is in sight! We think we'll be in Philly next Monday if all goes well.

Sunday, August 31, 2008

Day 43: Chillin' in Lyndhurst

Resting in Lyndhurst. Nancy and Nikki continue to make us feel like royalty. Nikki made us more greek food: phyllo dough with feta and cheese and eggs. Some greek name that I can't pronounce (teerOpita?)...but tastes delicious.

A beautiful day in Cleveland. Brunch in Coventry. Learned how to play the very popular (who knew?) game of corn hole this afternoon. We think that we may have to bring this game to Flagstaff. Nancy swears that it's destined to become an Olympic sport. I'm not sure. Any game that you can play with a beer in one hand (aka horseshoes and corn holing) probably doesn't qualify. But then again, they have curling - so who knows.

Also tried my hand at Guitar Hero. What a fun game - it's very addictive! I've got a long way to go before I make it into the pages of Rolling Stone, but I do have the 1980's big hair (thanks to the added humidity in Cleveland) for the true rocker effect.

Getting very fat and happy on our rest day.