76 miles: (Mike) An excellent day for riding, history and scenery. We went over the mountain to Bowmanstown. A really screaming downhill, the first of several today as we did 3600ft of vertical. This is less than the 5000 we would have done if not for some creative route making. At Bowmanstown we took the frontage to Palmerton; unfortunately that ended at a Zinc mine south of town. We tried to bushwack to the tracks but Aquashicola creek ended that. We backtracked to town and found remanents of the D&L canal on the other side of 248(248 is motorized only). This also ended at the creek. However the road was not barricaded so we used it to cross and road about 1/2 mile to where there was no shoulder and a hannging roadway. We heisted the bikes over the guard rail and bike/hiked 1/2 mile to 873. Not too bad as we were expecting this from a conversatin we had had with a state trooper. However he must have forgot about the creek.
After this we rode the applachin foothills into PA Dutch country. We knew we were there when we saw the township was giving PA Dutch lessons! No time to spracken ze duetsch. We went by the bear mtn ski area for a great twisting downhill to Hereford, In Green Lane we picked up the Perkiomen rail trail (awesome). In Rahns we got on the Skippack trail all the way to the old metal bridge near Evansburg. Five miles of back roads and we were home with no rush hour traffic to deal with. How now?
Monday, September 8, 2008
Sunday, September 7, 2008
Day 50: Bloomsburg PA to Parryville PA
67 miles (10 mph average): Awoke to a cool and dry day - yea! As we pushed our bikes through the lobby of the Econolodge, an older woman stopped me because she noticed that the top tube of our bikes reads "Long Haul Trucker". She said, "My son is a long haul trucker and and I keep telling him that he needs to bring a bike along on his trips for exercise. I'm going to tell him that I found just the bike for him!"
Beautiful quaint and quiet roads this morning (we think everyone is at church.) The hills afford us fantastic panoramic views of ALL the hills in our future today. I don't know if you know this or not, but PA is hilly!
Our lunch choices in West Hazelton were Burger King, McDonalds or Dunkin Donuts. Naturally we chose DD. I had an epic dining experience - 2 breakfast sandwiches, 3 donuts, and 2 bottles of oj. We are redefining the meaning of a balanced diet.
Change of plans: we abandoned the route we initially planned that took us 20 miles out of our way (to access rail trail), and instead went directly to Jim Thorpe PA. Not that this way was any easier: 9% grade and and warnings for trucks on the down side to use low gears.
Jim Thorpe - I had no idea it was so nice here! Rafting, mountain biking, train up the Lehigh Gorge, and quaint downtown. So enticing, we stopped for a beer (or two in Mike's case).
We left town in search of the Delaware and Lehigh Canal Trail. The guy with the "Ithaca is Gorges" t-shirt on at the bike shop gave us some rough directions - back over the bridge, behind the Jim Thorpe Market, beside the wastewater treatment plant there is a sort of trail that will take you to the canal trail. Evidently he had ridden his cyclocross bike there, so Mike deemed it acceptable for the Surly Long Haul Truckers too. With beer in belly, we felt overconfident and ready for bushwacking. Happily Mike's directional dynamism was working. 100 yards of rocky trail turned into singletrack (hey, I miss mountain biking!), which became the canal trail - complete with remnants of the old locks. Very cool trail! The path is where the mules used to walk to pull boats through the canal. On the other side of the path is the Lehigh River. Really awesome when you stop to thinkg about what it took in manual labor to build these canals. (Mike tells me that there are working locks up around the Fingerlakes in NY and in New Hope PA.)
We ran out of trail when we hit Perryville PA. Staying at the Country Inn and Suites trying to figure out how we will get through the gap in the Appalachian. There are two main roads: Niether allows non-motorized vehicles.
We're not ready for our trip to end. I'm getting a bit sad anticipating the last days. Riding our bikes every day has become a great habit.
Beautiful quaint and quiet roads this morning (we think everyone is at church.) The hills afford us fantastic panoramic views of ALL the hills in our future today. I don't know if you know this or not, but PA is hilly!
Our lunch choices in West Hazelton were Burger King, McDonalds or Dunkin Donuts. Naturally we chose DD. I had an epic dining experience - 2 breakfast sandwiches, 3 donuts, and 2 bottles of oj. We are redefining the meaning of a balanced diet.
Change of plans: we abandoned the route we initially planned that took us 20 miles out of our way (to access rail trail), and instead went directly to Jim Thorpe PA. Not that this way was any easier: 9% grade and and warnings for trucks on the down side to use low gears.
Jim Thorpe - I had no idea it was so nice here! Rafting, mountain biking, train up the Lehigh Gorge, and quaint downtown. So enticing, we stopped for a beer (or two in Mike's case).
We left town in search of the Delaware and Lehigh Canal Trail. The guy with the "Ithaca is Gorges" t-shirt on at the bike shop gave us some rough directions - back over the bridge, behind the Jim Thorpe Market, beside the wastewater treatment plant there is a sort of trail that will take you to the canal trail. Evidently he had ridden his cyclocross bike there, so Mike deemed it acceptable for the Surly Long Haul Truckers too. With beer in belly, we felt overconfident and ready for bushwacking. Happily Mike's directional dynamism was working. 100 yards of rocky trail turned into singletrack (hey, I miss mountain biking!), which became the canal trail - complete with remnants of the old locks. Very cool trail! The path is where the mules used to walk to pull boats through the canal. On the other side of the path is the Lehigh River. Really awesome when you stop to thinkg about what it took in manual labor to build these canals. (Mike tells me that there are working locks up around the Fingerlakes in NY and in New Hope PA.)
We ran out of trail when we hit Perryville PA. Staying at the Country Inn and Suites trying to figure out how we will get through the gap in the Appalachian. There are two main roads: Niether allows non-motorized vehicles.
We're not ready for our trip to end. I'm getting a bit sad anticipating the last days. Riding our bikes every day has become a great habit.
Saturday, September 6, 2008
Day 49: Williamsport PA to Bloomsberg PA
46 miles: Rain! Tropical Storm Hannah spelled wet weather today. Rode for a few hours and then spent a couple hours in Muncy at the library and having lunch. Great Greek restaurant where Mike order saganaki (flaming fried cheese - very dramatic!) and dolmathes. Delicious.
Having only ridden about 20 miles, we decided that we needed to get a little bit further before calling it quits. Another couple hours in the rain and we got tired of riding in the rain. When your fingers are wrinkled like raisins, it's time to come in from the weather.
Stayed at an Econolodge with a washer and dryer. The bottom of our rear panniers were filled with about an inch of water. Everything got wet this time - even my journal is waterlogged. Good thing most of it's in the computer already.
Having only ridden about 20 miles, we decided that we needed to get a little bit further before calling it quits. Another couple hours in the rain and we got tired of riding in the rain. When your fingers are wrinkled like raisins, it's time to come in from the weather.
Stayed at an Econolodge with a washer and dryer. The bottom of our rear panniers were filled with about an inch of water. Everything got wet this time - even my journal is waterlogged. Good thing most of it's in the computer already.
Day 48: Wellsboro PA to Williamsport PA
76 miles (11.9 mph average) and just 6-1/2 hours on the bike today: Great day! 60 miles of flat bike path from Wellsboro to Jersey Shore on a PA rail trail. The path meandered along Pine Creek through the PA Grand Canyon. Spectacular scenery. We were surprised by the number of cyclists we ran into on a Friday morning. We probably saw over 20 riders just in the morning (and maybe 40 for the whole day.) Ran into a band of brothers from North Carolina(ages late 50's to early 70's) riding the whole length of the rail trail.
Along the bike path, we saw all kinds of wildlife - an otter, bald eagle, osprey, deer, mergansers, wood ducks, mallards and blue heron. We also surprised a red tail hawk whole flew just 6' above our heads with a small muscrat in his talons. Very dramatic!
We lunched at the Slate Run General Store which is right on the rail trail. They do a bit of everything - post office, restaurant, bike rental, fly fishing shop. Truly a "general" store.
Off the rail trail in Jersey Shore, we had an unpleasant close encounter with a Ford Escort. She honked at us and even tried to turn into us at the intersection. (We had the right of way, but evidently she didn't like waiting.)
Things got considerably better when we hit Williamsport. We ran into a group of cyclists riding from Buffalo to Gettysburg, and we rode into town with Tom - one of the members of the group. Mike showed him the way to the Hampton Inn. There, I got a funny picture of them "parking" their bikes by leaning them against the handicapped parking signs. While they were definitely members of the AARP, I think that riding 70+ miles disqualifies them from the handicapped designation.
We stayed at the historic Genetti Hotel downtown. Cheaper than the Hampton Inn and nicer! On the 8th floor we had panoramic views of town and the surrounding hills. We dined at the Bullfrom Brewing Co - great stout there. Mike ordered the "Burg" - the most bizzare salad I've ever seen. It's a variation of the famous(?) Pittsburg Salad. Here's the recipe:
mixed greens (the traditional version calls for iceberg lettuce of course)
tomatoes
pickled eggs
sliced beets
onions
garlic french fries
cheddar jack cheese
blackened shrimp
He claims that it's delicious, but I'm dubious.
Along the bike path, we saw all kinds of wildlife - an otter, bald eagle, osprey, deer, mergansers, wood ducks, mallards and blue heron. We also surprised a red tail hawk whole flew just 6' above our heads with a small muscrat in his talons. Very dramatic!
We lunched at the Slate Run General Store which is right on the rail trail. They do a bit of everything - post office, restaurant, bike rental, fly fishing shop. Truly a "general" store.
Off the rail trail in Jersey Shore, we had an unpleasant close encounter with a Ford Escort. She honked at us and even tried to turn into us at the intersection. (We had the right of way, but evidently she didn't like waiting.)
Things got considerably better when we hit Williamsport. We ran into a group of cyclists riding from Buffalo to Gettysburg, and we rode into town with Tom - one of the members of the group. Mike showed him the way to the Hampton Inn. There, I got a funny picture of them "parking" their bikes by leaning them against the handicapped parking signs. While they were definitely members of the AARP, I think that riding 70+ miles disqualifies them from the handicapped designation.
We stayed at the historic Genetti Hotel downtown. Cheaper than the Hampton Inn and nicer! On the 8th floor we had panoramic views of town and the surrounding hills. We dined at the Bullfrom Brewing Co - great stout there. Mike ordered the "Burg" - the most bizzare salad I've ever seen. It's a variation of the famous(?) Pittsburg Salad. Here's the recipe:
mixed greens (the traditional version calls for iceberg lettuce of course)
tomatoes
pickled eggs
sliced beets
onions
garlic french fries
cheddar jack cheese
blackened shrimp
He claims that it's delicious, but I'm dubious.
Thursday, September 4, 2008
Day 47: Wellsboro PA (rest day)
Ah, a rest day! We're staying with Mark and Sandy just outside of town. Sandy made us some delicious black bean/rice and cheese quesadillas for dinner last night. Today we rode into town for an interview with the Wellsboro newspaper, and lunch with Cathy and Steve. I got some yoga in this afternoon, and we've had time to catch up on bills and e-mails. Resting is good!
I saw a quote from one of my favorite poets, Mary Oliver, today:
Tell me, what else should I have done?
Doesn't everything die at last, and too soon?
Tell me, what is it you plan to do
with your one wild and precious life? --Mary Oliver
With the death of another cyclist, we're reminded that 1)we are always vulnerable, and 2)life is short. For me, this is all the more reason not to sit at home on the couch - despite the risks. Back in Fort Collins, Dick shared his favorite life philosophy with us:
"Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well-preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting "holy shit-what a ride!"
I like this plan.
I saw a quote from one of my favorite poets, Mary Oliver, today:
Tell me, what else should I have done?
Doesn't everything die at last, and too soon?
Tell me, what is it you plan to do
with your one wild and precious life? --Mary Oliver
With the death of another cyclist, we're reminded that 1)we are always vulnerable, and 2)life is short. For me, this is all the more reason not to sit at home on the couch - despite the risks. Back in Fort Collins, Dick shared his favorite life philosophy with us:
"Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well-preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting "holy shit-what a ride!"
I like this plan.
Wednesday, September 3, 2008
Day 46: Marshburg PA to Wellsboro PA
88 miles (11.5 mph): An absolutely beautiful day of riding. Today's route through Port Allegheny, Coudersport, and Denton Hill to Wellsboro was one of the best of the entire trip. Lovely forests, rivers, and big views. The downhill portion of the day from the top of Denton Hill to Wellsboro rivaled the days we had in CA (top of Carson Pass in the Sierras) and in Colorado (Cameron Pass down through Cache La Poudre canyon) - just awesome!
As we ate lunch in Coudersport, we received sad news from Cathy: yesterday a member of Wellsboro's cycling community was killed in an accident in Tioga. Tom Kauffman was riding his bicycle into town and had a fatal collision with a car. We are so sad for his family and the community. Such a great loss. Needless to say, it was a sober ride into Wellsboro.
As we ate lunch in Coudersport, we received sad news from Cathy: yesterday a member of Wellsboro's cycling community was killed in an accident in Tioga. Tom Kauffman was riding his bicycle into town and had a fatal collision with a car. We are so sad for his family and the community. Such a great loss. Needless to say, it was a sober ride into Wellsboro.
Tuesday, September 2, 2008
Day 45: Meadville PA to Marshburg PA
80 miles (10.5 mph): Oh they have some crazy steep hills this part of PA! 10% grades make for some slow going. The culture is a bit different here. Many Amish and/or Mennonite farms.
According to Mike, this is also home to a good number of ultra-right wing rednecks. Lots of yard signs proclaiming, "Support the troops - let 'em win the war." (I guess this is in response to "support the troops - bring them home" signs.) We rode past one home where we spotted an older man working on his lawn in the front yard. Next to his driveway was a sign that read, "Vote Right, Vote White". Initially, I was trying to figure out which party was that color...as in Democrats are "blue" and Republicans are "red". Then I got it...horrifying. (Mike, momentarily as naive as I was, said at first that he thought that it referred to someone's last name.)
We stopped at a tiny market at a 4-way stop town a little while later. The sign on the door proclaimed that, effective September 1, smoking inside businesses was prohibited. So no smoking inside the market. When we approached the register, we noticed a petition on the counter requesting signatures to repeal the ridiculous "no smoking in businesses" law.
Camped at a nice KOA near Allegheny National Forest ($38 a night!) A beautiful area...awesome scenery. And Mike got his first Ylingling beer, which made him a happy camper. According to the owners of the campground, they have bears visit the campsite virtually every night. Made for some fitful sleep for me. I think Mike slept fine.
According to Mike, this is also home to a good number of ultra-right wing rednecks. Lots of yard signs proclaiming, "Support the troops - let 'em win the war." (I guess this is in response to "support the troops - bring them home" signs.) We rode past one home where we spotted an older man working on his lawn in the front yard. Next to his driveway was a sign that read, "Vote Right, Vote White". Initially, I was trying to figure out which party was that color...as in Democrats are "blue" and Republicans are "red". Then I got it...horrifying. (Mike, momentarily as naive as I was, said at first that he thought that it referred to someone's last name.)
We stopped at a tiny market at a 4-way stop town a little while later. The sign on the door proclaimed that, effective September 1, smoking inside businesses was prohibited. So no smoking inside the market. When we approached the register, we noticed a petition on the counter requesting signatures to repeal the ridiculous "no smoking in businesses" law.
Camped at a nice KOA near Allegheny National Forest ($38 a night!) A beautiful area...awesome scenery. And Mike got his first Ylingling beer, which made him a happy camper. According to the owners of the campground, they have bears visit the campsite virtually every night. Made for some fitful sleep for me. I think Mike slept fine.
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